Badstubåt ved Hilda Larsen

The wind off the fjord carried a chill as I pulled up to Hagefjordbrygga on Borøy. Southern Norway in late fall meant short days and crisp air, but I had come for the warmth of a floating sauna. I had messaged ahead to book a slot, and the reply came quick, confirming my time on this unmanned boat.

I grabbed my towel and swimwear from the car, leaving my watch behind since metal heats up fast against the skin. A quick dip in the sea served as my rinse before stepping aboard. The boat rocked gently, tied to the dock in this quiet coastal spot.

With no one around outside the main season, I had to fire up the sauna myself. I followed the notes left on board and got the stove going. It took about an hour for the heat to build, so I sat on the deck watching boats pass in the distance. The fjord water lapped at the hull, a steady rhythm.

Once warm, I stepped inside. Steam rose as I poured fresh water over the rocks, careful not to use anything else. I had brought water to drink, steering clear of colored sodas as suggested. The heat wrapped around me, easing the day's travel ache.

I lingered for a while, letting the sweat come. The small space felt cozy, like a private retreat on the water.

When the session ended, I paid through Vipps on my phone, quick and simple. Then came the cleanup: I hosed down the benches and floor with the mop provided, leaving it tidy for the next visitor. This self-service setup relied on folks like me to keep it going.

For the cool-down, I used the ladder at the end of the main pier. The fjord was cold and clear, but I swam with care. Boat traffic hummed nearby, so I stayed close to the dock. All swimming here happens at your own risk, a fair reminder in such open waters.

Drying off, I felt refreshed. The whole visit ran about two hours, from heating to cleanup, in this peaceful corner of Agder.