Badstuer på Vierli

The path from the Vierli cafeteria wound down through fresh snow, past a simple shelter and an old snow bridge. I had parked there earlier, as instructed, and now followed the trail on foot, my boots crunching under a gray winter sky. Rauland sat quiet in the Telemark hills, with the vast Hardangervidda plateau stretching out like a frozen sea in the distance. I was heading to one of the new saunas by Uvatn lake, a spot that felt tied to old Norwegian traditions, even if the setup was fresh.

Booking had been straightforward through the Camp Booking app, just 400 kroner for a two-hour slot. The place opened every day from nine in the morning until ten at night, so I picked a late afternoon time. No under-eighteens allowed, and swimwear was required, which suited me fine. I carried my own towel, though rentals were available back at the cafeteria if needed.

The saunas perched right by the water's edge, two sturdy structures named after local spots. I chose the one called Rauland, closest to the children's ski lift, though no kids were around in this adults-only zone. It held room for two to four people comfortably, and I had it to myself that day.

Inside, a small changing room let me shed my layers before stepping into the heat. The wood warmed slowly, building that deep, steady glow. I sat on the bench, feeling the steam rise and mix with the chill air seeping through. No food or alcohol permitted, which kept things simple and focused.

After a while, the warmth pushed me out. I stepped into the snow for a quick roll, the cold biting sharp against my skin. Back inside, the contrast hit hard, sharpening every sense.

As the session wound down, I lingered by the window, gazing out at Farhovd peak and the rugged line of Hardangervidda. The lake lay frozen, no summer dips today, but the winter setup felt right for the season. Toilets were back up at the cafeteria, open during their hours, so I planned accordingly.

Walking back up the trail, skis might have been smarter for the snow, but my boots managed. The whole visit left me refreshed, a quiet end to the day in this eastern Norwegian corner. If I returned in summer, cooling off in Uvatn would change the rhythm entirely.