Flytende badstue "Leo"

The boat bobbed gently on the water as I approached Bakkestranda, just outside Skien's center. It was a crisp afternoon in Telemark, with the kind of light wind that carries the scent of pine from the surrounding hills. I had booked the floating sauna Leo for a two-hour slot, arriving with my towel and swimwear in hand, ready to try this unusual setup on Hjellevannet.

The vessel stretched about 26 meters long, but the sauna itself sat in a compact house of around eight square meters. It fit up to six people, though I went solo that day to soak in the quiet. I parked nearby at the Odeon cinema on Blekeblakkvegen and walked the short path to the dock.

Inside, the wood-fired stove crackled softly, warming the small space. I changed in the dedicated room, then settled on the bench. To build more steam, I grabbed the bucket and ladle, pouring water over the hot stones. The heat rose steadily, sweat beading on my skin as the air thickened with humidity.

A stereo system waited in the corner, ready for Bluetooth or USB connection. I plugged in my phone and let some low music play, mixing with the sound of water lapping against the hull. The boat was open year-round, from ten in the morning until nine at night, Monday through Sunday, but I had reserved a slot at least a day ahead, as required.

Hygiene felt solid here. They clean and disinfect all surfaces between each use, which put my mind at ease. I appreciated that detail, especially on a shared boat like this.

When the heat grew too much, I headed to the front room. There, a hatch in the floor opened to a ladder dropping straight into Hjellevannet. I climbed down, the cold water shocking my heated body. It was invigorating, that plunge into the lake's chill, surrounded by the quiet expanse of Eastern Norway's waterways.

For variety, I tried the outside ladder too, jumping from the boat's edge. Back inside, I repeated the cycle a few times, letting the contrast reset me. They allow your own food and drinks on board, just not inside the sauna itself, so I sipped water between rounds.

By the end of my two hours, the boat felt like a private retreat. Skien's mix of urban edges and natural calm made the spot feel accessible yet removed. I left refreshed, already thinking about booking again for a group of up to six.